Do you want to panel a wall but don't know where to start? I had so many questions after I revamped both of my bedrooms with panelling that I've created a step by step guide that details everything for complete beginners! If I can do it, you can!
The panelling is made from MDF - (medium density fibreboard), MDF strips are used to create a panel effect, the actual 'panel' is just the wall surface. You can get the MDF cut at any wood merchants that has a saw mill. I had mine cut at my local B&Q.
The MDF is sold as a board, or you can buy a half board. A board is a standard length of 2400mm - so 240cm. You can buy it in different depth / thickness. So mine is a full board of 12mm depth, which is quite thick. I went for 12mm as I wanted it to look substantial and for the MDF not to bend when I was attaching it. I had mine cut into 8cm width strips.
It may sound obvious, but make sure it fits into your car before you get it cut. I've got a fiesta and it just about fitted through the hatch and into the foot well.
Not a technical drawing! But it shows how I worked out the measurements.
My wall is 370cm width. To work out your measurements you subtract the number of panels that you want and the MDF strips. By "panel" I mean the width of the wall that you can see between the MDF.
In my case 7 panels x 44cm, so 308cm. The MDF strips are 8 x 8cm so 64cm. Total up - so 308 + 64 = 372cm. (I'll adjust the gaps slights to make to make up for the 2cm difference).
I wanted the height of the panelling on the wall to be 140cm. So I subtracted the skirting board height (12cm) and the base MDF strip (8cm). So therefore my MDF strips needed to be cut to 120cm.
It's useful to take into account that the standard length of the MDF is 240cm. So I can get two drops out of each cut strip.
When working out your measurements take into account any sockets. My original strips were going to be 10cm width, but I narrowed them so that they didn't hit this socket. There's also a socket at the other end of the room. In a previous room that I panelled I had to get one of the sockets moved slightly, as it couldn't be done otherwise.
So lets get attaching! Start with the base panel. You don't necessarily have to have a base panel, you can just attach the the MDF vertical strips straight to the skirting board. It's personal taste as to what you prefer.
I used a 'No Nails' type of glue. It was applied using a glue gun. Both of these can be bought from any DIY shop such as Wickes, B&Q etc.
Simply glue the MDF strip and place onto wall on top of skirting board. It should be level, if the skirting board is level. You can check this using a spirit level.
You can use a panel pin to secure it until the glue has dried. I'll show you this later.
You can see here that there is a gap at the end, as the wall length is 370cm and the MDF is 240cm. So the next job is to cut a length to complete the base strip.
You can cut your MDF using a jig saw (as I have here) or a mitre saw. Of if you don't want to use an electric tool you can just use a junior hack saw. By the way I do have a work bench but it was easier to use the bedside table!
Next is the top vertical piece. You need to use the spirit level to ensure this piece is straight. I mark the wall before I glue the MDF on. You can see I've used panel pins to secure the MDF. Just hammer them in half way so that they can be removed easily once the glue has set.
Then move on to both of the end strips. Measure each drop individually as you can't guarantee the wall is straight! Then cut to length, glue and stick. Add panel pins to secure.
When you've attached the end panels it's well worth just going over your measurements, before you add on the rest of the drops.
Add your remaining drops. You know the drill!....measure, cut, glue and panel pin.
I've got a little shelf on my panelling, but I've seen people use mouldings or just leave it plain.
Here's how I attached the shelf. It's the same 8cm MDF that I used for the rest of the panelling. First, glue along the top strip.
Then attach the longest uncut piece of strip. Use a few panel pins to secure.
Obviously if your wall is smaller than 240cm you would cut to size and wouldn't need any joints.
Measure, cut and glue on your next piece of shelf. You're best using a clamp on the joint to keep it level.
Once it's dry the next step is to caulk the gaps and joints. Caulk is a flexible material used to seal small gaps or joints. It just makes the finished result look more professional. I used a gun (just swap the glue tube out) and wiped of any excess caulk with a damp cloth. It's not my favourite job!
Fully caulked!
Next remove your panel pins with a hammer. I did this job last, but you could do it before caulking. Just make sure the glue is fully dry before you do this.
And you're done!
So paint and style (the best bit)! I've gone light and neutral here. Check out my instagram @my_neutral_place to see my dark panelled bedroom. I hope you've found the tutorial easy to follow, and that it's inspired you to do your own DIY panelling!
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